No limit Wheel from Discounttire.com Now

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No Limit Wheels have taken the world of ATV/UTV rims to the next level with a lineup of fully customizable, precision machined, aluminum wheels available in nearly every OEM matching color. All No Limit Wheel models, except the 4-156 and 4-136.5 large bore wheels, come with a solid (non-removable) center cap which is actually machined into the wheel. Large bore wheels come with a polished aluminum center cap. With the highest load rating in the business, a nearly indestructible, reinforced rim edge and a lifetime structural warranty to back it all up, No Limit Wheels offers an American made wheel that blows the others out of the water. When you want to stand out from the crowd, put No Limit Wheels on your ride. No Limit Wheels…proudly made in the USA!

Here at discounttireworldshops.blogspot.com, we inform about  Discount Tire direct is now offering No Limit Wheels in four standard models which are available in 12 and 14 inch diameters.

Click here for: Sizes, Specs, and Pricing on all No Limit Wheel Models

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TECHNOLOGY

• 1-piece low pressure cast construction

• Staggered fitments available

• Unique CNC machining

WARRANTY

• Lifetime warranty on workmanship and material defects

*Complete Details: Lifetime Warranty - No Limit Wheels

RATINGS

• Load Carrying Capacity

*12" - 1,000lbs.
*14" - 1,000lbs.

• Weight

*12x6 Octane 10.4lbs
*12x8 Octane 11.2lbs
*14x6 Octane 12.2lbs
*14x8 Octane 14lbs

*12x 6 Revolver 9.2lbs
*12x8 Revolver 10.7lbs

*12x6 Venom 10.8lbs
*12x8 Venom 12lbs
*14x6 Venom 13.2lbs
*14x8 Venom 14lbs

MEDIA

ATV/UTV Wheels: No Limit Wheels (Dealer Expo 2011) - YouTube

No Limit Wheels - YouTube Channel - Custom Wheel Highlights

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CUSTOM FINISHES ARE AVAILABLE!!! Give us a call directly for additional details and pricing on custom No Limit wheel orders.

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If you are running No Limit Wheels on your ATV/UTV, post
your review along with a picture or two. We, as well as
No Limit Wheels, would love to read them.

you can go to check:
 www.suzukicentral.com/forums/100-discount-tire/92479-no-limit-wheels.html

Where position to Install Paired Tires?

It's a common problem: On front-wheel drive cars, the front tires get a lot more wear than the rears. Between power transmission and steering, usually front tires get about double the wear, so that if the tires are not rotated consistently, when they wear out the rear tires are still only half worn. It would be expensive and wasteful to replace all four tires, but it's usually good enough to replace just two tires on the same axle, so that the tread depth is the same across the axle.

But this brings up the question – which axle should the new tires go on, front or rear? There are actually very few questions in the tire world on which you can hear so many wildly diverging opinions for a question which has only two possible answers. Ask ten tire people, and you'd probably get an even split between “front” and “rear”, but ten different opinions as to why. Common sense would hold that since the front tires handle the steering and power, the newest tires should be on the front. But common sense in this case is not only wrong but genuinely dangerous. Here's the facts.

The danger in putting the worn tires on the rear axle is hydroplaning. Tires have deep grooves and channels designed to evacuate standing water out from under the tread as fast as possible. When the grooves of the tire fill with water faster than they can evacuate it, the incompressible nature of water can cause the tire to lose contact with the road, resulting in a loss of control. Worn tires are much more susceptible to hydroplaning because the grooves are shorter and can contain and evacuate less water.

The rear tires of a front-wheel drive vehicle are also somewhat more susceptible to hydroplaning, both because they are on the lighter end of the car and because they are being driven by the front wheels rather than applying power to the road themselves. Add in worn tires to this mix, and you've created a situation where the rear tires are very likely to hydroplane in standing water, while the front tires are much more likely to maintain their grip.

When that happens you get oversteer, where the front end will turn but the back end breaks loose and kicks out – as opposed to understeer, where the front end will not turn, but continues on it's original vector. If the rear tires hydroplane while the front tires do not, the result is nearly always an extremely dangerous oversteer condition that can easily lead into a full spin. That's scary enough on a test track, but all too often fatal on a rainy highway.

To avoid this, always put the two new tires on the rear axle to even out the grip differential from front to back. To pre-emptively avoid the problem, however, it's best to always rotate your tires as the manufacturer recommends. This will equalize the wear on your tires before the differential in grip becomes too large.

source: http://tires.about.com

Wheel offsets

The offset of a wheel is what locates the tire and wheel assembly in relation to the suspension. More specifically, it is the measured distance between the hub mounting surface and the center line of the rim. Below is an explanation of the various types of offsets which are pictured in the above graphic.

Positive Offset

A positive offset occurs when the hub mounting surface is on the street side (the side you see) of the center line of the rim. Most factory rims will have this type of offset.

Zero Offset

When the hub mounting surface is centered within the rim, it is known as a zero offset.

Negative Offset

If the hub mounting surface is on the brake side of the center line of the rim, it is considered a negative offset or "deep dish".

Note that extensive negative offset can potentially cause increased steering wheel kick-back and place additional stresses on the vehicle's entire suspension

Please feel free to drop by or phone a store near you if you require additional facts about wheel offsets.

Source : http://www.discounttire.com

Wheels Guide

Q. What are the different methods of making wheels?

A. In today's marketplace, steel and aluminum are the most common wheel materials. Steel wheels are made in two pieces. The inner piece, which is called the center, bolts on to the car. The outer piece is known as a barrel and receives the tire. The two pieces are welded together to form the wheel. Most original equipment wheels are made this way. Many aftermarket wheels are created this way as well, especially ones made for trucks. Steel is durable and easy to repair. For these reasons, it has remained a popular material for wheel manufacturing. The other material, aluminum, is by far the most popular type of wheel we sell. Its light weight, superior heat dissipation, and seemingly endless design variations make it the material of choice for most buyers. Aluminum wheels can be manufactured in many ways, and each method offers advantages.

• One-piece cast wheels

  Pouring molten aluminum into a mold creates a cast wheel. The metal then takes the mold's shape as it cools and hardens. There are three types of casting methods: low pressure/gravity, counter pressure, and high counter pressure molding (HCM). Each method has its place in today's market. A wheel manufacturer will select a particular method according to the weight, strength, and finish that they have specified for that design. Naturally, the more sophisticated and costly methods produce lighter and stronger wheels but at a higher price.

• Forged / Billet wheels

  The two words "forged" and "billet" have become synonymous. However, the manufacturing process is called forging, while the material used is a billet. Billet is the term used for a solid piece of dense aluminum. The forge, a huge machine that exerts thousands of pounds of pressure on the metal, basically presses or rolls the billet into its fundamental form. This forging is then machined to a final finish. This process allows wheels to be built with much less material. This results in lighter weight and unique designs, because the process creates a much stronger wheel than other methods.

• Multi-piece wheels

  The processes mentioned above can be combined to produce a wheel of a particular strength and weight at a particular price. For example, some wheels have a cast aluminum center, welded to a steel outer, or barrel. Another type of two-piece construction features a billet center welded to a rolled outer (extruded aluminum rolled into a hoop). Still other wheels feature a split outer so that widths and offsets can be made to custom specifications. This last method is the three-piece type construction. In this type of wheel, the center can be cast, billet or forged, and is usually attached to the outer assembly by special screws or rivets.

Q. What does fitment mean?

A. This term is used to refer to the physical specifications of the wheel and the availability of the sizes that will fit a vehicle. So, the fitment specifications for a particular wheel and vehicle include the bolt pattern, the offset, the wheel width and the wheel diameter. If you want a particular wheel for your car, select our Find Wheel Sizes for My Vehicle section and it will guide you to the styles available and the sizes that fit.

Q. What does FWD and RWD mean?

A. FWD stands for Front Wheel Drive and RWD stands for Rear Wheel Drive. Most wheel catalogs use these acronyms to sort out the wheels available for these two different types of vehicles. The great majority of the time, a FWD wheel will not fit a RWD vehicle and vice versa.

Q. What features should I look for when buying wheels?

A. First and foremost, wheels are purchased for styling the vehicle. You've got to like how they look. Second, decide on the build method and quality. The discussion of manufacturing methods above was intended to inform you of the different ways wheels are made. Choose the manufacturing method you want at the price you are happy with. Finish quality is important, so demand a nicely finished wheel. Finally, decide on the price. We realize there are many tradeoffs between the various features and price and that's why we carry a wide selection of wheels for every budget.

Q. What does finish mean?

A. Finish refers to the type of surface treatment a wheel is given. Machined or polished finishes are popular on aluminum wheels. "Machined" is what the wheel looks like after the last shaping procedure (usually a lathe cut) has been completed. An additional step involves passing the wheel through successively finer automated and hand polishing processes. This results in the polished finish. A chrome finish is also available on aluminum wheels, but requires three additional layers of metal treatment (copper, nickel and chrome) to be achieved. Chrome finishing can significantly increase the price of the aluminum wheel. That's where steel wheels have an advantage: chrome goes on in one simple, inexpensive step. Finally, paint goes on everything and can be applied in single or multiple color schemes. Often the powder coating process is used to apply paint, resulting in a heavy, durable finish. In today's market, wheel manufacturers combine finish methods in different ways. For example, the popular tuner type designs often feature a silver center and a machined or polished lip. The last step in many styles is to seal the wheel with a clear coat, making the wheel much easier to maintain.

Q. What are the pros and cons regarding spacers and adapters?

A. In most cases, using a spacer (of greater than 3mm thickness) or an adapter means you will be using a wheel that was not designed to fit your vehicle. Unless you get the advice of a professional, this can cause trouble. An incorrectly fit wheel almost always leads to excessive wear on suspension parts, poor ride and potential mechanical failure. In the vast majority of applications, we do not recommend the use of these devices.

Q. What are hub-centric rings; do I need them?

A. Most aftermarket wheels are manufactured with a center hole that will fit a wide range of vehicles. The hub-centric ring is used to fill any gap that may exist between this hole and the vehicle's hub, thus centering the wheel on the axle. If you have vibrations after installing new wheels, chances are hub-centric rings were not used.

Q. What's the best way to clean my wheels?

A. Probably the single biggest mistake when cleaning wheels is to use super cleaners, which can contain harsh abrasives. Mild soap and warm water is sufficient for routine cleaning. After cleaning chrome-plated wheels, you can apply a non-abrasive wax or cream to prevent surface corrosion. If you have clear coated wheels, skip this step. Don't let tire cleaners come into contact with your wheels, and try not to spray cold water on hot wheels. If you go to the car wash, don't let them use steam cleaners or strong chemicals on your wheels. To brighten up your polished wheels (that don't have a clear coat), use a polishing cleaner provided by the manufacturer. To maintain this great look, apply some wax to keep the weather out.

Q. What's the best way to install and remove my new wheels?

A. That's a job that's best left to your tire dealer. A combination of special tools and methods are used to install wheels so they deliver the performance you paid for. Initial mounting of the assembly on the vehicle requires positioning and starting the lugs by hand. Next, the lugs can be pre-tightened using a hand wrench or torque stick (a tool that ensures a lug is not over tightened). The final torque setting is applied using a calibrated torque wrench. It sounds complicated, but a trained technician (like those at Discount Tire) can get this done very quickly.

Q. I just hit something in the road. How do I find out if my wheel is ok?

A. If you have a vibration or pulling symptom, chances are you may have damaged the wheel. Again, go to the tire dealer and let him inspect your wheels. He will place each assembly on the balancing machine and check for run-out (a hop or wobble). If you have a damaged wheel, get the unit repaired or replaced immediately to avoid further problems.


Source : http://www.discounttire.com

Cleaning Your Wheels

Cleaning Wheels with a Painted Finish

When cleaning your new wheels, we recommend that you refrain from using chemical wheel cleaners. Many of them contain caustic chemicals that can damage the clear-coated finish by clouding it or even removing it. If you wash your vehicle on a regular basis, there is really no need to use them. When washing your vehicle, start with the wheels first. Try to wash them when they are cool, not after a long drive. The brakes heat the wheels up, making them difficult to clean and dry. Since the finish on your wheels is similar to your vehicle's paint job, use a mild detergent that is designed for use on automotive finishes. Use a washing mitt or a soft sponge. Never use any type of brush or abrasive pad as these will scratch and damage the finish. Because the finish of painted wheels is similar to the paint job on a vehicle, we also recommend waxing the exposed areas of your wheels three to four times a year or more if you live in a harsh climate. This will maintain the new look longer and will help keep road grime and the elements from damaging the finish of your new wheels.

Cleaning Wheels with a Chrome Plated Finish

The same rules for wheels with a painted finish apply to wheels with a chrome plated finish. However, chrome plating is more delicate and does require more care. You may wish to clean and wax them more often. Be sure not use any abrasive chrome polishes as this could scratch the chrome plating. If you live in a climate where road salts are used in the winter months, we recommend that you remove your plated wheels during this time. Chrome plated wheels will rapidly pit and become cloudy when exposed to road salt for any extended period, as the salt contains chemicals which breaks down the finish on this type of wheel.

Source : http://www.discounttire.com

Understanding the Wheel

Example Wheel Size: 16x7 4-100 40S

16
Wheel Diameter: The size of the wheel as measured across its center.

7
Wheel Width: The width of the wheel as measured across its barrel from the front rim to the rear rim.

4-100
Bolt Pattern: The bolt pattern indicates the arrangement of lug holes and consists of two elements: the number of bolts, or lugs (4 in this case), and the distance between them across the center of the wheel (100mm in our example). For more detailed information, visit our Bolt Pattern page.

40
Offset: The offset of a wheel is what locates the tire and wheel assembly in relation to the suspension. More specifically, it is the measured distance between the hub mounting surface and the centerline of the rim. Our Info Center has more information in the Wheel Offset page.

S
Finish: With hundreds of different wheels there are dozens of different wheel finishes. They are clearly marked at the end of the wheel size (ex. S = silver).

Source : http://www.discounttire.com